Finding the right balance with a catchy aesthetic, good pricing and high-end quality is emerging as a top priority for Italy’s new talents.
“MILAN — Affordable luxury seems to be the most appealing market segment for emerging Italian brands.
Instead of prioritizing creative fantasies and indulging in expensive fabrics and treatments, up-and-coming designers are trying to find a balance between aesthetics, quality and prices.
If Italy, along with Paris, has for many years been the center of luxury labels, the country’s emerging brands now seem to be more interested in dressing real people than in building ivory towers of creativity and exclusivity.
“Positioning the brand in the affordable luxury segment is definitely the easiest way for emerging brands to find a place in the most prestigious stores next to established luxury labels,” said Milan-based showroom owner Riccardo Grassi. “I think that in the future there will be an increased appetite for brands offering products with a designer’s aesthetic but with accessible pricing.”
“E-commerce is the most efficient and successful sales channel for designer Violante Nessi, who founded the namesake affordable luxury brand in London two years ago. The collection, all crafted in Italy, targets “those sophisticated girls who don’t buy fashion-fashion, are not so obsessed with big brands and look for clothes that make feel them pretty and comfortable,” explained Nessi, who worked in New York at Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler and in London at Tom Ford before launching her own line.
Listing the Matisse light wool flared pants enriched with eight front buttons, as well as the Yayoy sweaters with puffy shoulders and a wrap effect on the bodice as its bestsellers, which are also available at the brand’s store in London, Violante Nessi features competitive prices, with pants retailing at 335 euros, knitwear at 385 euros and evening dresses up to 700 euros. While mainly relying on a direct-to-consumer business, the brand is creating partnerships with select retailers, including leading Italian boutique Ratti.”
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